Toile Making

After cutting all the pattern pieces out in calico fabric,

i started sewing them together, with a 1cm seam allowance.

I began by sewing the darts into the front and back pieces, sewing the fan effect collar,

jabot frill and button placket onto the shirt after joining the front and back pieces together to create

the below pictures.

Shirt Front

Shirt Back

When making the shirt out of cotton fabric, i will steam the collar

to keep its shape.

I also sewed a top stitch on the bottom pleats to keep them in place.

Fan Effect Collar

After sewing all the shirt pieces together to create the toile,

i put it on a size 12 model to see what needed to be improved upon in the patterns.

I found that the jabot frill will be constructed from one piece of fabric to create less of

statement, as it sticks out too much, the shoulders will be more gathered

and i will take 1cm off the shoulders and back neck so that the collar sits better on the neck.

I will try out the sleeve head to see if i get the desired fullness.